I gotta give props where props are due. GumboPages, you haven’t ever let me down. Its a good site for basic New Orleans recipes. I highly recommend the site. But, last night I needed to make something I had never considered making myself before, even with a lifetime of Italian raised-ness: The Muffaletta.
There’s a little Italian place down the street from where I work. They have a muff they guarantee you’ll love. I got it and was digging through rock hard bread going “Where’s the olive salad?” It was some ground up black olive paste stuff more resembling tapenade. Suffice to say, I did not like their muffaletta.
A muff, for people not from my neck of the woods, is a deliciously bad for you sandwich about the size of your head. Its a loaf of seeded italian bread, about a pound and a half of Italian meats and cheeses (provolone, mozzarella, hard salami, mortadella, and ham) topped with heaps of olive salad. Olive salad is key. Its composed of a variety of pickled veggies, peppers and capers and then packed with a ton of big green and black olives (not the grocery store jarred kind of olives- I’m talking fat, Greek olives and big ol green ones like you find in the olive section at the grocery) All of this gets mixed together, spices thrown in and enough good olive oil dumped on it to make it look almost like a bizarre soup. The recipe for the best olive salad is a closely guarded secret of Central Grocery, a little Italian store in the French Quarter that’s been making them since before I can think. When we were home for thanksgiving, I didn’t get one cause Central closes on Sundays. Guess what day we went to the Quarter.
So, I wanted one last night. Bad. I found GumboPages recipe for olive salad that is as close to the ingredients as I could remember from eating them as a kid. I made it. My kitchen reeks of green olives and olive oil now. I got all the meats and cheeses and some Italian bread knockoff I could find at the store (looked like ciabatta.) I’d take a picture of the leftovers if there were any. I offered a hunk to anybody willing to try it and most liked it. I did. So, I figured I’d post the recipe for olive salad for anybody out there in need of one as I was:
Courtesy of GumboPages (http://www.gumbopages.com/food/samwiches/muff.html):
This is not just a bunch of cold cuts and cheese. Anyone can make that. That’s not to say that the meats and cheeses aren’t important — they are. You can get good quality Italian meats and cheeses in most good supermarkets, but you’d be better off at an Italian market (especially for the mortadella, which isn’t always easy to find at a conventional supermarket.
To make this, you need two very important ingredients — the bread, and the olive salad. In a pinch any good Italian bread will do, but for an authentic muffuletta you need a muffuletta loaf. It’s round, usually sesame-seeded and about 10 inches in diameter. I’m told that many New Orleans muffuletterias (a new word I just made up) get their bread at Angelo Gendusa’s bakery. If you want a Liuzza’s-style “Frenchuletta”, use a good light-bodied crispy-crusted French bread. Then … the olive salad. The Holy Grail of sandwich fillings.
The olive salad recipe is the Number One single most-requested recipe on The Gumbo Pages.
While Central Grocery do not give out their muffuletta olive salad recipe, lots of folks have tried to duplicate it, with varying degrees of success. I’ve been saying for years now that I’m going to get a jar of olive salad from Central and reverse-engineer it, but until then, this will do quite nicely.
New Orleanian cook and cookbook author Chiqui Collier was kind enough to share this recipe with me for this site, and says, “It is my pleasure to send you the recipe for the original muffletta sandwich that was created by the grandfather of a lady i worked with 28 years ago.” (Presumably that was Signor Salvadore.)
“The recipe for the olive salad is the exact way it was given to me. It makes over a gallon, but since your comments indicate that you love it, i’m sure you won’t want to cut it down. It stores very well in the refrigerator for many months and makes great gifts along with the recipe for the sandwich. It does appear in my cookbook, “Cookery N’Orleans Style”
• For the olive salad:
• 1 gallon large pimento stuffed green olives, slightly crushed and well drained
• 1 quart jar pickled cauliflower, drained and sliced
• 2 small jars capers, drained
• 1 whole stalk celery, sliced diagonally
• 4 large carrots, peeled and thinly sliced diagonally
• 1 small jar celery seeds
• 1 small jar oregano
• 1 large head fresh garlic, peeled and minced
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 jar pepperoncini, drained (small salad peppers) left whole
• 1 pound large Greek black olives
• 1 jar cocktail onions, drained
Combine all ingredients in a large bowl or pot and mix well. Place in a large jar and cover with 1/2 olive oil and 1/2 Crisco oil. Store tightly covered in refrigerator. Allow to marinate for at least 24 hours before using.
• For the sandwich:
• 1 round loaf italian bread
• 1/4 pound mortadella, thinly sliced
• 1/4 pound ham, thinly sliced
• 1/4 pound hard Genoa salami, thinly sliced
• 1/4 pound Mozzarella cheese, sliced
• 1/4 pound Provolone cheese,sliced
• 1 cup olive salad with oil
Split a muffuletta loaf or a loaf of Italian bread horizontally. Spread each half with equal parts of olive salad and oil. Place meats and cheeses evenly on bottom half and cover with top half of bread. Cut in quarters. Enjoy!
Serves four timid dieters, two hearty New Orleanians or one incredible maiale.
Tell me you’re not hungry now?!